
THE PERFECT SUIT
First of all, the general length of sleeves, jacket and trousers must have the right fit. The trousers should be with cuff for a more casual look and without cuff for formalwear as it has a more elegant look. In short, the perfect suit should be a perfect fit and meet the wearer’s requirements.
What type of fabric makes the best suits?
Most modern suits are made of wool and it is by far the best choice for a first suit. It’s the most versatile fabric, best for comfort, wrinkle-resistant and has greater longevity than most. Another characteristic that makes wool an ideal suit fabric is its ability to absorb moisture so it’ll keep you cool even on the hottest days.
The most common types of wool suits are merino, cashmere and angora. Wool with ‘high-twisted’, 100 or Super 110 are made of a worsted wool yarn that has been twisted more often than the usual 60-80 twist fabrics. This makes it a finer cloth of a somewhat lighter weight. Such suits would be perfect considering the local climate would bake you inside out if you dress up in suits made of bulky or puffy yarns.
It also varies from season to season. In summer, you will find mixed fabrics for suits or jackets such as linen, linen/silk, wool and silk. In winter, wool is the main fabric used. Overall wool is still the best fabric for a nice made-to-measure suit.
Are there rules for picking a suit?
Tall guys should stay away from vertical stripes including pinstripes since they tend to accentuate height. Horizontal stripes and window pane plaids are more flattering patterns. If you’re thin to boot, fabrics that cling are a bad idea. However, baggy clothes also bring attention to your svelte physique. Wearing shirts that are slightly fitted with spread collars and trousers that are straight in the leg – not tapered – work best. Also, sweaters with a closer fit to the body but not fitted are more flattering. And since suits with three buttons tend to lengthen the body, stick with one and two buttons.
What about other body types?
Short guys should avoid cuffed trousers, long suit jackets and loud patterns. You don’t want to bring attention to your smaller structure. Pinstripes and other stripes (but not too bold) and dark solid colors are your best bet since they visually lengthen the body. Also, two- and three-buttoned suits with long lapels give a flattering, longer silhouette. And remember, when buttoning your suit, leave the top button on two- and three-button suits undone since this will give the illusion of being taller. When it comes to ties, avoid Windsor and double knots – in other words stick to small knots. This will help you avoid looking like a kid.
Heavyset men shouldn’t wear bold patterns. Pinstripes and solid colors, especially dark ones, are your friends. Bulky fabrics such as tweeds should be avoided when it comes to suits, and softer wools such as gabardines and super 100’s should be embraced. Do wear suits with peaked lapels since they carry the eye upwards. Shirts with pointed collars are also more flattering. Some say suspenders are better than belts.
Common mistakes when suiting up
- Trousers that are too short. Your trousers should be long enough to cover your socks and socks should cover your shins even when crossing your legs. Your trousers should just cover the heel of your shoe.
- Mismatched socks and trousers. Don’t be tempted to wear wacky colors such as green or yellow, with a dark serious suit. It won’t make you look unique… just stupid!
- A poor fitted, baggy suit. It’ll make you look sloppy… not a good look for your big day.
- Wearing unflattering colors. The colors you wear should complement your natural features such as your eye color, skin tone and body shape. Young customers normally purchase plain black, gray or blue so that it can be used for multiple occasions.
- Wearing too many colors. Limit each of your outfits to just one to three shades to give you a simple coordinated look. If in doubt, find a color wheel and use it to help you choose your hues.
The anatomy of a suit
- Shirt or tuxedo shirt
- Trousers
- Top coat, tuxedo, Western suit or jacket
- Vest (optional)






